The most successful Chardonnay exhibitor in New Zealand wine judging competitions for the last two decades is Villa Maria Estate. Not only do the ‘Single Vineyard’ and ‘Reserve’ wines win the top awards, but the more accessible ‘Cellar Selection’ range has taken a good share of the gold medals too. It’s that ‘trickle-down’ effect where what is learnt in making small, high-end batches can be applied to the wines made in a larger volume. The ‘Single Vineyard’ and ‘Reserve’ wines can possess very distinctive and funky characters that appeal especially to critics, judges and serious wine enthusiasts. For a broader market, these characters must be moderated to a degree to ensure that the consumers at this level are not put off. But all things in wine evolve, and we are seeing the incorporation of complexing inputs that might have been seen only at the top level before, becoming standard in the more commercial wines. The careful introduction of the complexities has allowed the greater body of consumers follow the changes with ease. I believe Villa Maria have rightly been cautious in their approach on this. Here, I review the new release 2017 Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, from a more difficult growing season, which required a careful approach to balance and inputs, and thus does not push boundaries. Its harmony makes it a success. www.villamaria.co.nz
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