Valli Old Vine Riesling 2012 and Pinot Noirs 2011

11-Mar-2013

Central Otago doyen Grant Taylor has crafted some of the most significant wines of the region in his 20 years there, including several stunning releases of the Gibbston Valley ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir, but the latest offerings under his own label Valli Vineyards show him to be a man at the top of his game. The 2010 Pinot Noir releases can be regarded as the best he has made to date. (Click here to see my reviews.) He is one of my outstanding wine producers over the last two years, and was a hot contender for my ‘Winery of the Year’ in 2012. (Click here to view my article.) Valli Vineyards not only makes superb wine, but wine that is fully expressive of their origins, and it is the range of Otago sub-regional Pinot Noirs that is absolutely fascinating to taste and compare, as one can see terroir at work. Here are my reviews of his 2011 vintage Pinot Noir releases, (as well as the 2012 ‘Old Vine’ Riesling from Alexandra fruit). The 2011 Pinot Noirs, are more refined and aromatic than the 2010s, and closer as a group, but still distinctively representative of their Otago sub-regions. www.valliwine.com

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW

Valli ‘Old Vine’ Central Otago Riesling 2012
Riesling from New Zealand - Otago
Review Date : 11-Mar-2013
☆☆☆☆☆
Fruit from vines planted in 1981, from the Black Ridge vineyard in Alexandra, fermented to 12.0% alc. and 5 g/L rs, TA 8.8 g/L, and pH 2.9. Brilliant green-hued pale-straw colour, pale on edge. The bouquet is very tightly bound and concentrated, but elegantly proportioned, with ethereal aromatic detail, showing minerals, lime fruit and white florals. Dry to taste and still very tight in expression, the fruit extract, depth and fine texture is the feature. Concentrated and pure flavours of mineral-infused white floral fruit unfold, revealing slate and flint with delicate citrus elements. The fruit is underlined by brisk, racy, mouthwatering acidity that drives the refined, textural palate line to a pristine and very long, sustained finish with lingering nuances. This is a tightly bound, youthful and mouthwateringly dry Riesling with considerable fruit weight. It will develop well over the next 5-6+ years. Serve as an aperitif and with seafood. 480 cases made. 18.5/20 Mar 2013 RRP $28.00
Valli ‘Waitaki Vineyard’ North Otago Pinot Noir 2011
Pinot Noir from New Zealand - Otago
Review Date : 11-Mar-2013
☆☆☆☆☆
Dark, deep ruby-red with some purple hues, lighter on rim. The nose is very fragrant and lifted with violet and dark red florals, notes of raspberry jam and liqueur, liquorice and pepper, underlined by fresh dark herbs that build in depth and intensity. Medium-full bodied, elegant, compactly bound flavours of bright, soft red berry fruits are lifted by red floral elements. Fragrant, cooler spectrum herb and dried stalk whole bunch flavours are integral with the fruit. The mouthfeel is finely textured with refined tannin extraction, and alcohol and acidity provide cut and linearity. The structure becomes more prevalent on mid-palate and leads to a soft, dry and lightly nuanced finish. Possessing a complex bouquet this is a fine-grained, linear Pinot Noir with fragrant red fruits and herbal flavour underlay. Serve with salmon, tuna and poultry over the next 5-6 years. Clones 5 and 115 from vines planted 2001 in the Waitaki Valley, fermented with 20% whole bunch to 13.5% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 34% new French oak barrels. 240 cases made. 18.0+/20 Mar 2013 RRP $65.00
Valli ‘Gibbston Vineyard’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011
Pinot Noir from New Zealand - Otago
Review Date : 11-Mar-2013
☆☆☆☆☆
Gibbston fruit, clones 5, 6, 115, 113, 114 and 777 from vines planted in 2000, fermented with 30% whole bunch to 13.5% alc, the wine aged 11 months in 34% new French oak barrels. Full, deep purple-red colour with a dark heart, youthful in appearance. The nose is very refined with beautifully bright, aromatic dark red berry and cherry fruits, showing excellent ripeness, intermixed with fragrant fresh thyme herbs and hints of Asian spices. Medium-full bodied, sweet and succulently ripe, dark red berries and cherries are complexed by layers of florals and herbs forming a detailed amalgam of flavours. Oaking is very harmonious, adding spicy nuances. The tannin extraction is very fine, providing a good core and elegant palate line, which is enlivened by lively, fresh acidity. This has impressive balance, tension and energy, and the flavours flow to a very long, lingering finish featuring sweet fruit notes. This is a classically structured, fragrant and sweet-fruited Pinot Noir with noteworthy balance. Match with most poultry and pork dishes over the next 6-8+ years. 910 cases made. 19.0-/20 Mar 2013 RRP $65.00
Valli ‘Bendigo Vineyard’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011
Pinot Noir from New Zealand - Otago
Review Date : 11-Mar-2013
☆☆☆☆☆
Very full, bright and deep purple-red colour, near lurid, and very youthful in appearance. The bouquet is full and softly rounded with aromas of ripe dark plum fruit with some whole bunch dried stalk complexities and savoury game nuances adding layers of interest, all well entwined and integrated. Fullish bodied, broad and weighty flavours of dark berry fruits, plums, dark herbs and oak toast nuances fill the palate. This is up-front, open with accessible, sweet and rich fruitiness, the restrained acidity enhancing the rounded mouthfeel. Some alcohol warmth adds to the generosity, and the tannin extraction builds from mid-palate to provide a firm, grainy texture that leads to a dry, long finish with dark plum and dark herb notes. This is a fulsome, open and sweet, dark plum flavoured Pinot Noir with plenty of tannin structure. Serve with roasted red meats and casseroles over the next 7-9 years. Clones 667, 777, 115, Abel and 5 from vines planted in 2006, from ‘Chinaman’s Terrace’, Bendigo, fermented with 30% whole bunch to 14.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 34% new French oak barrels. 200 cases made. 18.5+/20 Mar 2013 RRP $65.00
Valli ‘Bannockburn Vineyard’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011
Pinot Noir from New Zealand - Otago
Review Date : 11-Mar-2013
☆☆☆☆☆
Bannockburn fruit, clones 115 and 777 from vines planted in 2000, fermented with 38% whole bunch to 14.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 34% new French oak barrels. Dark, deep, purple-hued ruby-red with good depth and youthful purple hues on rim. This has a full and vigorous bouquet of vibrantly bright dark berry and black plum aromas expressed with great clarity. Subtle waves of dried stalk whole bunch and dried herb complexities unfold, with notes of liquorice, spices and aromatic oak. Fullish bodied, solid and densely packed flavours of black berry fruits are intermixed with liquorice, minerals and dark herbs, forming a rich and sweet core. The flavours are encased by very fine-grained, powdery tannins and well-driven with some alcohol power. Discreet and balanced acidity underlines the palate, providing excellent tension and leads the flavours to a long, well-concentrated finish. This is a full and concentrated Pinot Noir with dark fruit and fine-grained structure. Match with game meat and hard cheeses over the next 8-10 years. 220 cases made. 19.0/20 Mar 2013 RRP $65.00

Valli Old Vine Riesling 2012 and Pinot Noirs 2011

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW

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