As with most winegrowers, Steve and Eileen Voysey of Spade Oak in Gisborne have found that Pinot Gris is a remarkably marketable wine. The demand for it outstrips that of any of the other aromatic whites. Once, the variety was infamous for its blandness of flavour, supposedly an attribute that made it popular with the masses, but clearly this is untrue, as consumers are far more discerning, and demanding wines with character and detail. This is ideal for Steve Voysey who for me is the winemakers’ winemaker. He is forever working on the vinification, componentry and blending to give a wine that shows greater balance, detail, texture and interest. Here, I review the new release 2018 ‘Voysey’ Pinot Gris, the more accessible of the Spade Oak ranges, but clearly one that receives as much thought and input as the others. This wine takes over from the very successful 2017, and comes from a highly regarded vintage. www.spadeoak.co.nz