Steve Voysey is a winemaker’s winemaker in that he is ever-innovative and keen to take on the challenge of the more sophisticated and technically difficult styles as well as working with new varieties. This has resulted in Steve’s excellent track record with some of this country’s most significant wines while working, starting with Montana and ending up at Pernod-Ricard. It has also led to him planting emerging varieties such as Albarino, Petit Manseng, St Laurent and Tempranillo in his and his wife Eileen’s own ‘Spade Oak’ venture in Gisborne. Here, I review two new Spade Oak releases, demonstrating the Voyseys’ foresight and keenness to innovate. With regard to the method traditionnelle, it is actually a single vintage wine, but is labelled ‘NV’ as Steve thinks the wine is about its style primarily, rather than year of production. However future labelling is planned to include the ‘top ‘Vigneron’ tier, and will have a code to show the disgorgement date, these all critical points in such quality sparkling wines. www.spadeoak.co.nz