St Laurent has Pinot Noir in its heritage, and the wines I’ve seen generally show some Pinot Noir character. However, there is a ‘wilder’ or ‘funkier’ side to the variety and the wines that emanate from it. Often it is seen as a spiciness, and other times, there are savoury characters, even showing game and funkiness at times. It is this difference to Pinot Noir that makes St Laurent very interesting and potentially good in New Zealand.
Steve and Eileen Voysey have had the St Laurent variety in the ground since 2008. I have tasted the releases since the 2011 vintage, and can report there are swings in style, but generally not far from the Pinot Noir side of expression. The wines made have been consistently pleasing, but I know Steve sees it as a work in progress, working on the range of flavours and the balancing of fruitiness, extraction, tannin structure and acidity. The wines have sold well for Spade Oak, far better than Gruner Veltliner, which they have ceased making. Here, I review the 2014 Spade Oak ‘Heart of Gold’ St Laurent, which Steve sees in the more savoury spectrum, with a firmer structure than earlier releases. The wine is also a reflection of the strong 2014 vintage. Steve reports there will be no 2015 St Laurent, and the 2016 uses puncheons primarily. The 2017 is said to be "looking terrific but big again”. There is much to anticipate. www.spadeoak.co.nz
