I’ve detected a subtle increase in the sophistication of the Palliser Estate wines from Martinborough over the past few years. This has been especially noticeable in the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the other wines, particularly the aromatics, a little more constant, retaining their style of elegant fruit expression and finesse. I applaud this evolution, and the Chardonnays from 2015 and 2016 looked very special, with greater richness, finer textures and more complexities, no doubt partly a function of the warm growing seasons. Here, I review the 2017 vintage Palliser Estate Chardonnay, from a cooler and more challenging year. www.palliser.co.nz