Paddy Borthwick is one of the most experienced winemakers in the Greater Wairarapa region having made wine for over 35 vintages. He is very understated about his achievements, but his 27 ha vineyard on Dakins Road in Gladstone, part of the family’s Te Whanga farming business, produces highly regarded wine that is seen in a number of influential overseas markets. All the wines are strong performers, but his ‘Left Hand – Right Hand’ Pinot Noir bottlings are particularly fascinating. The ‘Left Hand’ wine is made by the ‘logical and precise’ Braden Crosby, Paddy’s assistant winemaker for many years, now departed to make his own ‘On Giant’s Shoulders’ Martinborough wines. The ‘Right Hand’ wine is made intuitively and impulsively by Paddy. For both wines, the fruit was selected at vineyard level, vinified and elevaged separately, with a three barrel selection of each to determine the final wines. This experiment was initiated in 2011 (click here to see my reviews), with wines made in 2013 (click here to see my reviews) and 2014 (click here to see my reviews). 2012 was a poor vintage and the 2015 vintage was one of very low yields, thus the wines were not made. I must admit my preference is slightly in favour of the ‘Right Hand’ wine for its greater complexities from what I have tasted to date. Here, I review the 2017 Riesling (a re-look), the 2017 Chardonnay, and 2016 ‘Left Hand’ and ‘Right Hand’ Pinot Noirs, where Braden made a ‘guest appearance’. www.borthwick.co.nz