The Waitaki Valley in North Otago is proving to be a challenging region to grow wine, the main problem being reaching a size to make economy of scale pay. Most of the operations are small and often family-owned. The climate tends towards the continental, and many consider the district edgy in terms of success in commercial terms and ripeness. The pay-off is the distinctively mineral and excitingly vibrant wines that come from the limestone-influenced soils. That is why Ostler Vineyards of Jim and Anne Jerram with Jeff Sinnott, Valli Vineyards and Grant Taylor, and Dr John Forrest have serious stakes in the ground, along with smart growers such as Murray Turner.
Ostler Vineyards has grown recently and now tends 16 ha of vines over four vineyards. These are the home ‘Clos Ostler’, ‘Shine’ and ‘Lemon Springs’ (a.k.a. ‘Lakeside Vines’) around Lake Waitaki, plus ‘Doctors Creek’ in the Waitaki Valley. All four sites are within 25 km of each other, but most importantly provide variations in terroir, and thus the ability to for winemaker Jeff Sinnott blend wines of greater complexity. There is also the option of ‘single vineyard’ bottlings. Recent vintages have been tight in yield, and Jim Jerram is happy to report that 2018 has given healthy yields and healthy fruit. No matter what the vintage, I’ve seen the minerality in the wines, and they are exciting. Here, I review the new release 2017 ‘Lakeside Vines Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, both under the ‘Grower Selection’ tier. www.ostlerwine.co.nz
