Established in 1985, Nautilus Estate has a sense of conservatism, getting everything right and building on solid foundations. The approach has served them well, as they have never put a foot wrong, and every wine they have released has been nothing short of classical. In reality, there is plenty of radical and avant garde work going on behind the doors of the winery and in the vineyards as winemakers Clive Jones and Brett Bermingham and viticulturist Mike Collins are constantly improving the wines. Not many people are privy to the goings-on, but visits last year and recently this year revealed adventurous work with the aromatic white wines under both the Nautilus and Opawa brands, and a step up with the limited release ‘Four Barriques' Pinot Noir, a result of the progress in their Pinot Noir programme. The latest releases reviewed here seem to show Nautilus going a bit wild. www.opawawine.comwww.nautilusestate.com