Mud House 2013 ‘Estate’ Waipara Pinot Gris and Riesling
In November last year, it was announced that the Mud House wine brands had been sold to Accolade and the vineyards sold separately to CK Life Sciences. However, the paths of fruit supply remain the same, with the Mud House wines being made from the same vineyards under contract, the lease to run for 20 years. The viticultural and winemaking teams are in place without alteration. In essence, nothing has changed as far as the final consumer is concerned.
Mud House has its origins in the Waipara Valley, and in a district notable for its aromatic wines, the Mud House bottlings of Pinot Gris and Riesling can be counted among the best, a reflection of the quality of the fruit from the vineyards. The vineyards are under the care of Jean-Luc Dufour. The oldest is ‘The Home Block’, vines first planted in 1994, its 50 ha situated behind the winery on S.H. 1. ‘The Mound’ vineyard is further up and over the road from the winery on Georges Road. First planted in 2002, it measures 93 ha. Further up Georges Road and on river terraces is ‘The Deans’ vineyard, first planted in 2001 and now measuring 76 ha. All three are based on gravelly loams over alluvial subsoil. Winemakers Ben Glover and Nadine Worley have overseen the production of the ‘Estate’ tier ‘Home Block’ Pinot Gris and ‘The Mound’ Riesling from the 2013 vintage, which I review here. www.mudhouse.co.nz
FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW
Mud House ‘Estate’ ‘Home Block’ Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2013Pinot Gris from New Zealand - Canterbury & WaiparaReview Date : 07-May-2014Bright straw-yellow colour with a tinge of blush, pale on rim. The nose is tightly concentrated and a little restrained, showing aromas of white and yellow stonefruits lifted with florals and infused with delicate minerally lees detail, revealing subtle honeysuckle and spice nuances with aeration. Dryish to taste and medium-full bodied, elegantly concentrated and bound flavours of stonefruits, minerals and florals unfold with richness and presence. The palate shows fruit weight and extract with a fine phenolic core and textured line in support. Some alcoholic power drives the wine, carrying the textures and flavours to a dry, firm, lingering finish. This is a finely concentrated dry Pinot Gris with fruit weight and fine textures. Serve with poultry, pork and Mediterranean fare over the next 4-5+ years. Fruit from the ‘Home Block’ vineyard, cool-fermented in stainless-steel to 14.2% alc. and 3.5 g/L RS, the wine aged 3 months on lees. 18.0+/20 May 2014 RRP $32.99
Mud House ‘Estate’ ‘Mound’ Waipara Valley Riesling 2013Riesling from New Zealand - Canterbury & WaiparaReview Date : 07-May-2014Fruit from ‘The Mound’ vineyard, cool-fermented in stainless-steel to 11.8% alc. and 11.7 g/L RS. Bright, pale straw-yellow colour with light green-golden hues, pale on rim. The bouquet is very refined and intense with a tightly bound amalgam of white florals, lime fruit and toast, the aromatics mouthwatering with minerality. Off-dry to taste, the palate is elegant in proportion with delicately penetrating flavours of florals and citrus fruits, laced with minerals and some toasty elements. The mouthfeel features excellent acid poise and tension, and the wine is guided by a very fine, delicate textural line. There is concentration, finesse and cut, and the palate carries through to a sustained and detailed, dry finish with lime and toasty notes. This is a tightly concentrated and refined dryish Riesling with poise and textured linearity. Serve as an aperitif and with fine Asian cuisine over the next 5+ years. 18.5/20 May 2014 RRP $32.99