Kumeu River 2009 ‘Single Vineyard’ Chardonnays

The 2008 Kumeu River Chardonnays were very popular. Being the produce of a very favourable vintage, the wines had an appealing lusciousness and ripeness from an early stage. I certainly loved the style where the vintage enriched the more elegant white burgundy model that Kumeu River consistently attains. The Brajkovich family are extremely pleased with the 2009s recognising their restraint compared with the wines of 2008. Paul Brajkovich reports they have good concentration and racy acidity, with beautiful fragrance and elegance, being similar to the 2004s which "blossomed into delicious silky wines with great length”. Paul sees the terroir differences even more pronounced than ever with the 2009s. I rated the Kumeu River ‘Estate' Chardonnay 2009 with a 5 star rating in May. (Click here to view my comments.) Here's my review of the single vineyard wines just released. Supporting Paul Brajkovich's view, I felt the ‘Coddington' was the Meursault style, the ‘Hunting Hill' like Puligny-Montrachet, and the ‘Maté's' a greater cru from Puligny. This is how these labels show relative to each other, to me, using the white burgundy analogy. The 2009s certainly have an enhanced purity and chalky minerality, more so than in many previous vintages. www.kumeuriver.co.nz

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