Craggy Range Deep Purple Wine Club Day

Craggy Range must have a very strong and loyal client base, because if you have purchased wine reasonably regularly, you’re probably a member of the ‘Deep Purple Wine Club’ and you’ll get a complimentary invitation to a club day out at the ‘Giants‘ winery on the road to Waimarama near Havelock North. This year, Craggy Range conducted their third ‘Deep Purple Club’ day, and they expected 700 guests to arrive. My purchase of a selection of Craggy Range ‘Prestige’ wines clearly qualified me and my partner Sue to a treat. Places were limited, and it was a ‘first-in’ basis to come along and enjoy the extensive programme.

It’s a Craggy Range showcase and extravaganza, where a selection of new, current, library and yet-unreleased wines are offered for tasting, at food stations, where match food morsels are served. (I have notes on each station following.) And then there’s the workshops and tastings, which this year included ’10 Years of Te Muna Pinot Noir’, the ‘Bordeaux Battleground’ which I attended, a tasting and en primeur offer of the 2011 ‘Prestige’ wines, a ‘Celebration of Te Muna Road’ with a selection of the different varieties from there, and masterclasses involving oysters and ‘Firstlight’ meats. All of the staff were present working and enjoying themselves. You could meet up with and talk to owners Terry or Mary-Jeanne Peabody, winemakers Steve Smith MW or Matt Stafford, sales and marketing personnel based in Europe and Australia and the talented team at the ‘Terroir’ restaurant.

I asked communications manager Natalie Corkery “How can Craggy Range be so generous putting on such an extravagant event at no cost to the attendees?” Her answer was that this was the major marketing exercise planned annually, and that the response and return from it compensated extremely well, so less is allocated to traditional forms of promotion. As an attendee, I can believe it. The queues to place their orders for wine at the end of the day were very long indeed, and many cases of wine were sold! www.craggyrange.com

Steve Smith MW
Craggy Range Director of Wine & Viticulture

The Wine and Food Stations

There were three Wine and Food Stations operating on the grounds, each with two varieties of wine and matched canapés. Here are my impressions:

Sauvignon Blanc & Merlot – Terroir Lakefront

· Freshly shucked ‘Yellow Brick Road’ oysters with lemon

· ‘Razorback’ boar belly bites with sage, green apple and beetroot relish

The ‘Avery’ Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 was refined, tight, near-austere, with an amalgam of gooseberry fruit and plenty of mouthwatering minerally flavours, presented with great linearity. In comparison, the ‘Te Muna Road’ Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 possessed more weight, texture and presence, with layers of richer detail, showing the influence of oak fermentation. Broader by degrees and with structure.

I was very impressed with the ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2011, ultra smooth and even, with sumptuous and succulent black plum and berry fruits and nuances of spice and cedar. This has a completeness to it. I preferred it over the ‘Te Kahu’ ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay 2011, which was more firm and driven by the blackcurranty Cabernet Sauvignon component. This is grainier and bigger, but needs a little more time. It’s a bit of a turnaround, as with the 2010s, I liked the ‘Te Kahu’ over the Merlot.

Riesling & Syrah – Vineyard Lakefront

· Watermelon, ‘Over the Moon’ goat curd and black olive savoury cone

· ‘Firstlight’ wagyu vine barbecue sliders

The older ‘Rapaura Road’ Marlborough Riesling 2008 was served first. Very tight and slender, this had elevated acidity and cut, and a combination of lime-like fruit, minerals and the beginnings of secondary toasty complexities. Though also dry, the ‘Te Muna Road’ Martinborough Riesling 2012 seemed positively sumptuous, being warmer in expression with yellow citrus fruits and fuller mouthfeel with appropriate weight. The poise between sweetness and acidity was a real delight.

The red on offer was the ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2010, showing lovely elegance for this cooler vintage in the region. Rather than showing green, it has always been aromatic, and here it had developed more interest with Asian spices, black pepper, bacony and smoke building. The integration and smooth texture was excellent.

Older vintages of Riesling and Syrah were served; I missed their initial opening but I came back later to taste two that were remaining. The ‘Rapaura Road’ Marlborough Riesling 2008 had softened, but was still clearly and definitely dry. Gentle honied overtones and the kero-toasty secondary were very prominent, but a baseline of lime fruit was still present. A ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2008 was served from a 5.0 Litre format. Luscious and very attractively appealing with supple and lively mouthfeel, this showed distinct secondary earth and game notes to the pepper and spices.

Chardonnay & Pinot Noir – Alongside the Alders

· Wood roasted quail en croute, Aromatic’ pickled eggplant

· Terroir garden heirloom tomato and basil salsa with buffalo mozzarella savoury cone

I saw the saline character in the ‘Kidnappers’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2011 that the Craggy Range team always talk about. Tight and linear, purportedly Chablis-like, but without the flintiness for me. But very cutting and refined nevertheless. My choice was the ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2011, more up-front with citrusy fruit and positive oaking, resulting in succulence and nuttiness. Far more traditional, and delicious for it.

The two Pinot Noirs were a contrast. The ‘Te Muna Road’ Martinborough Pinot Noir 2011 was all about fragrance and prettiness, light and sweet, with a line of acid zing. There’s more to it than meets the eye. But what you smell is what you get with the ‘Calvert’ Bannockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010. Dark ripe berry and cherry fruits, lavender and thyme, indulgent plum notes and juicy, but with tannin drive.

There were previews of the ‘Prestige’ ‘LBC’ and ‘Aroha’ wines opened, but it was good seeing these with the other wines in this tier.

Matt Stafford – Craggy Range Winemaker

A Preview of the 2011 ‘Prestige’ Wines

On offer in the Cellar Door for tasting prior to their June release were the ‘Prestige’ wines from the 2011 vintage. Behind the counter was winemaker Matt Stafford, the ideal man to be able to discuss their sophisticated make up. My impressions follow:

The ‘Les Beaux Cailloux’ ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2011 will be the last from the Chardonnay vines on the vineyard, as the plants have been pulled out due to leaf roll virus diminishing the yield to uneconomic performance. This was tighter, denser and more intense than the ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Chardonnay 2011, but only by shades. The fruit richness and finesse of structure allied to taut youth will see it go that bit further and display more nuance over time.

I’ve seen the ‘Aroha’ ‘Te Muna Road’ Martinborough Pinot Noir 2011 at an earlier tasting, and here it looked just that much richer and riper, definitely into the dark plum and savoury complexity spectrum, but with amazing balanced sweetness and extraction. At the earlier tasting, Steve Smith MW attributed it to the Abel clone predominance. This day, Matt Stafford felt there was a strong influence of 40% whole cluster. Either way, the depth of character showed, but all very seamlessly so.

The star wine and Craggy Range flagship in most people’s eyes, and thus the must-try was the ‘Le Sol’ ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2011. Much more refined and elegant than anticipated, with piercing and penetrating aromas and flavours of black and white pepper, Asian spices, black and violet florals and fruits. Seamless through the palate with bright and energetic acidity and tannin finesse. This isn’t in the blockbuster style of the first half of its life, but it’s no shy wallflower either. A most striking wine.

Merlot is the major variety in the company’s ‘Gimblett Gravels’ vineyard and the ‘Sophia’ ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay 2011 is the ultimate expression of that grape. Combining incredible spicy intensity and depth, this remains an elegantly proportioned wine with considerable power and drive. Plush and exotic ripe fruit exuding black plums and liquorice, the oaking is opulent, and seductive. This carries an excitement through the palate.

Increasingly, Cabernet Sauvignon seems to be performing ever so more successfully in the Gimblett Gravels. So too is ‘The Quarry’ ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay 2011, reflecting this trend, this being somewhat shy initially, but this is a wine that just grows in weight, presence and layers of ripe blackcurrant, cassis and cedar. There is a completeness, balance and harmony that is present, and the feeling is that it could overtake the ‘Sophia’ in the long run.

I can’t wait to see these wines in a more controlled environment, and over a special meal to see if they show and develop as what I see in my impressions.

Bordeaux Battleground

Of the different masterclasses, the ‘Bordeaux Battleground’ was the most heavily subscribed. The ‘Ten Years of Te Muna Pinot Noir’ was also very popular, but I had already attended a media tasting the week previous (click here to read my notes). The appeal of this tasting was the comparison of Bordeaux varietal wines from New Zealand with those from the Napa Valley and Bordeaux. No doubt, there would be Craggy Range wines included! These exercises are always fun, challenging and eye-opening, and usually, the New Zealand wines fare pretty well on all fronts, being seen of similar quality to the more prestigious and more expensive and highly acclaimed examples from the California and France. What would happen today?

The tasters were asked by Steve Smith MW to pick their top three wines, and if possible, identify the country of origin. As can be seen, my top three were two of the Napa Valley wines, with a claret in third. For the group as a whole, a Bordeaux wine, Ch. Pichon Baron 2008 was adjudged the clear leader, with the three Napa Valley and the Craggy Range ‘Sophia’ 2010 coming in at the next level of preference. On this occasion, the sweetness of ripe fruit and the higher alcohols of the Napa Valley wines won the day! Was I taken in by the strength, linearity and oaking of the straight Napa Valley Cabernets which may have overshadowed the softer Merlot-based wines? The overall standard and range of quality of all the wines, however, was very compact and at a very high level. I certainly found the exercise a difficult one, and many people fared better than I did. Here are my brief comments on the nine wines served blind:

Stag’s Leap ‘Artemis’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Very dark, black-red, with youthful purple hues. This has a classical, refined, varietally clear nose of blackcurranty Cabernet Sauvignon fruit with beautiful leafy elements, very Bordeaux-like. On palate, remarkably elegant in proportion, the blackcurrant fruit purity lifted with fine spicy oak elements that come to the fore. Very smooth in texture with the fruit sweetness contributing a lusciousness, the wine possessing an extremely long finish. I thought this Bordeaux. 19.5-/20

Craggy Range ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay 2008

Very dark black-red, slight garnet hues. This is very full, even and gently integrated on nose with very ripe plummy aromas along with a little oak dustiness. A robust and fulsome wine with considerable structure and extract showing. Ripe and sweetly expressed black fruits and plums, matched by a warming mouthfeel, the alcohol a little noticeable, but with the acidity to prevent any flabbiness or broadness. The oaking is absorbed by the fruit depth. I thought this Napa Valley. 18.5+/20

Ch. Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2009

Very full, impenetrable black-red colour. This is bold and up-front on bouquet with plenty of blackcurrants, cassis and ripe plum aromas, along with some lifted oak notes. Very tight and firmly packed on palate, showing real concentration and definite tannin linearity, matched by significant acidity. Sweet fruit emerges, with slightly savoury game elements. Tougher and sinewy, quite complex flavours unfolding. A little brettanomyces (?), but within limits. Offering some potential to age. I thought Bordeaux. 19.0/20

Hess Collection Mount Veeder Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Very full, saturated black-red, impenetrable, the darkest on the table. The nose is very full and densely packed, showing very ripe black fruits. Is the fruit a little over-ripe, showing dumbed-down, ‘dead fruit’ character? Lovely, quality new oak spicing on the nose. This is very full, firmly extracted and powerfully deep. The structure is significant, but the fruit is penetrating and with sweetness and succulence. The tannins become more refined as the fruit melds, and the finish is long and dry. A wine that is as densely packed as the colour suggests. I thought Napa Valley. 18.5+/20

Craggy Range ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay’ 2010

Very dark ruby-red with slightly lighter edge. This is very elegant on nose with fine proportion. The fruit is fragrant with dark red fruits and floral notes intermingling with ripe, black fruits. Oaking is balanced, adding some shine. On palate very fruit-focussed, the core showing rather than breadth or richness. This has the density of structure to age well. Very fine-grained, and though a little reticent, will keep well in an elegant style. I thought N.Z. 18.5/20

Whitehall Lane ‘Reserve’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Very dark, black-hearted ruby-red colour. The bouquet has very ripe and concentrated blackcurrants with cassis and beautifully sweet cedary oak lifting the aromatics. The balance of perfectly ripened fruits and very fine-grained, supple tannins is startling, but there is great structure, line and flow. Acidity and freshness with energy and tension all in place, the oaking also integral. This wine shining with its harmony and vitality, and underlying power. My top wine. I thought this N.Z. 19.5+/20

Ch. Pichon-Baron Longueville Pauillac 2008

Very full, deep, dark colour, black-red. The fruit is explosively rich and deep, powerful and ripe with a mass of toasty, charry oak matching the black berried fruits on bouquet. Densely weighted with plush and luscious black fruits, the extraction is significant and absorbs the fruit decadence. The oaking is distinctive and pronounced, with high toast elements a feature. The palate becomes dry and structured. A statement wine, which was deemed the best by the group. I thought it Napa Valley. 18.5+/20

Craggy Range ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay 2009

Very dark, deep, purple-hued ruby-red colour. The nose is very elegantly refined, but intensely packed with a complex amalgam of ripe dark plum fruit, with hints of savoury tobacco, dust and earth, with oak nuances adding detail. On palate also refined and elegant, but with sweetness and intensity of dark plum and berried fruits. This has excellent ripeness Tannins very fine-grained, allowing the fruit to feature, and freshness and energy very apparent. Classiness showing. I thought this N.Z. 19.0-/20

Ch. Pavie-Macquin St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe 2008

Black-red colour, saturated and near impenetrable. The nose is extremely powerful, with savoury black fruits and black olive aromas, and an amalgam of sappy elements and spicy oak. Ripe and fleshy, with strong body and structure, the flavour spectrum is both sweet and sour, quite distinctive and unusual. The acidity is a feature of the mouthfeel. An individual wine of savoury fruit and robustness of tannins. I thought this Bordeaux wine. 18.0+/20