RECENT FEATURES




Framingham 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 Classic Riesling, 2018 Select and Noble Rieslings, and 2017 Pinot Noir
Rojo ‘Gran Rojo’ Tempranillo Rosado 2017
The Hunting Lodge 2018 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Albarino, and 2018 White Mischief
Forrest 2017 and 2016 Gruner Veltliner, 2014 Chardonnay, and John Forrest ‘Collection’ Pinot Noir 2013
Te Whare Ra 2018 Aromatic Whites, 2014 Pinot Noir and 2017 Noble Riesling
Tiki ‘Estate’ Waipara Pinot Noir 2018
Mahi 2016 ‘Boundary Farm’ Sauvignon Blanc and ‘Twin Valleys’ Chardonnay
Queensberry Gardens 2018 Chenin Blanc, and The Lazy Dog ‘Sweet on Chenin’ and Gewurztraminer
Palliser Estate Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Red Deer Marlborough Rosé 2018
Dry River Martinborough 2017 Chardonnay, ‘The Twelve Spies’, 2015 Syrah and 2018 Botrytis Gewurztraminer
X Wines ‘little x’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2014
Akaroa Winery Banks Peninsula 2016 and 2015 Pinot Noirs
Lamont Central Otago 2018 Pinot Rosé and Pinot Gris, and 2017 Chardonnay
Pegasus Bay 2016 Sauvignon Semillon and ‘Aria’ Late Picked Riesling
The Luminary 2018 Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir
Big Bunch Hawke’s Bay 2018 Pinot Gris and 2014 Merlot
Coto de Hayas ‘Roble’ Campo de Borja 2017
Misha’s Vineyard 2017 ‘Starlet’ Sauvignon Blanc, and 2016 ‘Gallery’ Gewurztraminer and ‘Cantata’ Pinot Noir
Brookfields ‘Ohiti Estate’ 2018 Pinot Gris and 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
Maui Waipara and Tiki 'Estate' Marlborough 2018 Sauvignon Blanc
Taimana Waitaki Pinot Noir 2013
Daniel Le Brun Methodes and Morton Estate ‘Black Label’ Wines from LionCo
Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2017
A Selection of Italian, French and Australian Wines from Procure
// View More Featured Reviews

Featured Reviews




Paddy Borthwick 2017 Riesling and Chardonnay, and 2016 Left Hand and Right Hand Pinot Noirs

13 March,2018

Paddy Borthwick is one of the most experienced winemakers in the Greater Wairarapa region having made wine for over 35 vintages. He is very understated about his achievements, but his 27 ha vineyard on Dakins Road in Gladstone, part of the family’s Te Whanga farming business, produces highly regarded wine that is seen in a number of influential overseas markets. All the wines are strong performers, but his ‘Left Hand – Right Hand’ Pinot Noir bottlings are particularly fascinating. The ‘Left Hand’ wine is made by the ‘logical and precise’ Braden Crosby, Paddy’s assistant winemaker for many years, now departed to make his own ‘On Giant’s Shoulders’ Martinborough wines. The ‘Right Hand’ wine is made intuitively and impulsively by Paddy. For both wines, the fruit was selected at vineyard level, vinified and elevaged separately, with a three barrel selection of each to determine the final wines. This experiment was initiated in 2011 (click here to see my reviews), with wines made in 2013 (click here to see my reviews) and 2014 (click here to see my reviews). 2012 was a poor vintage and the 2015 vintage was one of very low yields, thus the wines were not made. I must admit my preference is slightly in favour of the ‘Right Hand’ wine for its greater complexities from what I have tasted to date. Here, I review the 2017 Riesling (a re-look), the 2017 Chardonnay, and 2016 ‘Left Hand’ and ‘Right Hand’ Pinot Noirs, where Braden made a ‘guest appearance’. www.borthwick.co.nz

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW



Paddy Borthwick Wairarapa Riesling 2017

Riesling from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

17.5+/20

Bright straw-yellow colour with pale green-gold hues, a little lighter on the edge. The nose is very tightly bound with pure aromas of limes and lemonade, along with white florals, unfolding suggestions of honeysuckle, toast and minerals. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate possesses elegantly concentrated flavours of limes and lemonade with subtle notes of white florals and minerals. The mouthfeel is fine with a firm core, and the wine flows with good linearity. Very refined fruit extract textures and soft, lacy acidity balances the fruit. This is pure and focussed, and carries to a lingering finish with toasty nuances. This is an elegantly concentrated dry Riesling with pure lime and lemon flavours with floral and mineral elements on a refined palate. Serve as an aperitif, and with Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese fare over the next 4-5 years. Fruit from the ‘Borthwick’ vineyard, picked clean with no botrytis, cool-fermented in stainless-steel to 12.1% alc. and 5.7 g/L RS, TA 8.6 g/L and pH 2.96. 18.0/20 Mar 2018 RRP $22.00

Bright straw-yellow colour with light gold-green hues, paler on the rim. The nose is softly full with aromas of lime fruit entwined with hints of honeysuckle, sherbet and musk nuances, along with yellow florals and hints of minerals. This has good depth and intensity. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate is elegant in expression with a finely concentrated core of lime fruit and yellow florals, and a suggestion of honeysuckle with mineral notes. The fruit has good depth and is enlivened by light, lacy, crisp acidity, and the wine flows along a fine-textured line, leading to a dry finish of limes, yellow florals and minerals. This is a finely concentrated dry Riesling with lime, floral and mineral flavours on a fresh palate. Serve as an aperitif, and with Asian fare over the next 4 years. Clean fruit from the ‘Borthwick’ vineyard, cool-fermented in stainless-steel to 12.0% alc. and 5.7 g/L RS, TA 8.5 g/L and pH 3.05. 17.5+/20 Dec 2017 RRP $22.00

Paddy Borthwick Wairarapa Chardonnay 2017

Chardonnay from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18-/20

Bright yellow colour with pale golden hues and some depth. This has a very elegant and tightly bound nose with a firm core of white and yellow stonefruits entwined with subtle flinty, reductive complexities, and some nutty and toasty oak notes. Medium-full bodied, the palate has good depth and concentration of white stonefruits and citrus fruits melded with subtle notes of gunflint, along with spicy and toasty oak. The fruit flows along a fine-textured line, and the mouthfeel is enlivened by refreshing, crisp acidity. The wine carries with good energy and tension to a lingering finish of citrus fruits, nuts and flint. This is a very finely concentrated Chardonnay with stonefruit, flint and toasty oak flavours on a refreshing palate. Match with grilled and roasted seafood, poultry and pork over the next 4+ years. Fruit from the ‘Borthwick’ vineyard, clones 2/23, 96, 548, 809 and 1066, fully barrel-fermented to 13.5% alc., the wine aged 9 months on gross lees in 20% new puncheons, undergoing MLF. 18.0-/20 Mar 2018 RRP $26.00

Paddy Borthwick ‘Left Hand’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2016

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

19-/20

Dark, deep, purple hued ruby-red colour, a little lighter on the edge, very youthful in appearance. The nose is fine and firm with intense aromas of ripe black cherries and black berries with dark raspberries, melded with dark herbs and lifted violet florals. This has richness, vibrancy and depth. Medium-full bodied, the palate has rich and succulent fruit flavours with good depth and intensity of black cherry and berry fruit, raspberry liqueur, along with a subtle layering of dark herbs, unfolding black and violet florals. The fruit is enlivened by a fine, lacy thread of acidity and underlined bt very fine-grained flowery tannins. The vibrant and juicy fruit prevails on palate and carries to a concentrated, long finish. This is a fine and firmly concentrated, vibrant Pinot Noir with ripe black berried fruits with dark herb and violet floral notes and a fine structure. Match with lamb, beef and venison over the next 6+ years. A vineyard and barrel selection wine by Braden Crosby, the fruit fully destemmed and fermented with whole berries to 13.5% alc., the wine aged 11 months in approx. 30% new oak. 70 dozen made. 19.0-/20 Mar 2018 RRP $55.00

Paddy Borthwick ‘Right Hand’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2016

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18.5+/20

Full, very dark, deep, black-hued ruby-red colour with youthful purple hues. The nose is soft and ethereal with violet floral perfumes entwined with dark-red and black cherry and berry fruit, unveiling subtle nuances of dark herbs. The aromatics are harmoniously integrated and refined in expression. Medium-full bodied, the palate is elegantly presented with gently voluminous and mouthfilling flavours of ripe dark-red cherry and berry fruit with raspberry liqueur notes, unfolding violet florals. The fruit is beautifully aromatic with an array of florals, enlivened by balanced acidity. The wine flows gently along a very refined, velvety line, leading to an ethereal, fragrant finish. This is a beautifully fragrant Pinot Noir with dark-red cherry and berry fruit with raspberry and floral flavours on a refined palate. Match with poultry and pork over the next 6+ years. A vineyard and barrel selection wine by Paddy Borthwick, the fruit fully destemmed and fermented with whole berries to 13.5% alc., the wine aged 11 months in approx. 30% new oak. 70 dozen made. 18.5+/20 Mar 2018 RRP $55.00

Copyright © 2011 Raymond Chan Wine Reviews
Website by DataFlex | Design by Skinny