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Tasting Reviews




Miotto Prosecco – Connected to New Zealand


21-Dec-2017
In the past 10 years, Prosecco from north-east Italy has grown to be one of the most significant sparkling wines of the world, and the market share of the style is continuing to increase globally. Made by the Charmat method, the wines are more accessible in style and price than the likes of Champagne and Cava, as well as method traditionnelle wines made in local regions around the world. There is no pretence to Prosecco wine, and Champagne remains at the top of the hierarchy of bubbles. The vast majority of Prosecco is essentially simple and delightful with it. However, Prosecco producers are very aware of the faddish nature of the market, and the most forward thinking are working at fine-tuning and improving quality, while developing styles that offer interest and a point of difference.

Azienda Agricola Miotto is one such producer. A small family business with 12 ha of vines, based in Colbertaldo di Vidor, in Treviso, Veneto, the company has been making its own-labelled wine since the early 1970s, though owing vineyards before then. Valter Miotto heads the operation, with his wife Maria Virginia, and sons Andrea and Matteo. Around 100,000 bottles are made from 15 sites making up the 12 ha estate. The best parcels are used in the Miotto wines and a considerable amount of base wine is sold off to other producers, so the Miotto production can be tailored to meet demands. The jewel in the crown is the 2 ha DOCG ‘Federa’ vineyard, with the name ‘Federa’ used on the best bottlings which may include fruit from other sites.

The focus at Miotto is on traditional Valdobbiadene DOC and DOCG Prosecco wines, but the company has a global outlook in supplying the wine to the consumer. The output from Miotto has grown recently, with new vineyards and a new winery built last year, to accommodate the progress of the firm.

Much of the Miotto’s outlook is due to the experience of son Andrea. He was the first Italian student from the Conegliano oenology school to come to New Zealand in an exchange programme in 2003. The exchange with a New Zealand student going to Italy in reciprocity continues today. I met Andrea while judging at the Bragato Wine Awards, where Andrea participated. I was impressed with his enthusiasm and passion for wine in general, as well as being a promoter of Prosecco. He has come back since to work vintage in Hawke’s Bay, and says he loves the country. www.cantinamiotto.it

Andrea Miotto
 
Tasting a Range of Miotto Prosecco
Andrea Miotto and his family came back to New Zealand in December this year to renew friendships and enjoy the country again. On this trip, he brought samples of his family’s wines. He is seeking to make the wines available in New Zealand because of his "connectedness”. I caught up with him during his time in Wellington, and tasted the wines he had. They are classy and elegant, and the range he showed had real interest and differences that will give Prosecco lovers to expand their horizons. My notes on the wines follow in the order as presented by Andrea. I have given wine prices which reflect their relativity to the other wines. At present, the correct prices have yet to be determined.

Miotto ‘deRive’ Rive de Colbertaldo Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Brut Nature 2016
Straw-yellow with frothy effervescence, very fine. The nose is pristine with excellent clarity with white stonefruit and fresh apple fruit aromas, a touch of saline and minerals. This has excellent purity and clarity. Very dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate is refined and taut in expression with steely stonefruit, apple and mineral flavours. The finesse and effervescence is enhanced by the fruit purity, and this is in no way austere. Some nutty elements emerge with a touch of brine. The palate flows along a velvety line with crisp acidity lending linearity to a very, mouthwatering, dry finish. This is a refined, minerally Prosecco of purity. 100% Glera fruit from the ‘Federa’ vineyard from the 2016 vintage, fermented to 11.5% alc. and 2 g/L RS, 4,000 bottles made. 18.5+/20 Dec 2017 RRP $30.00 TBC

Miotto ‘Federa’ Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Brut NV 
Very pale straw colour, with very fine froth bead and bubble. The nose has a lucid fruitiness of fresh apples and subtle lees and a suggestion of minerals. Quite up-front, the aromatics possess real presence. Dryish to taste and medium-bodied, the palate has softly rich apple-like fruit, nearly sweetly ripe. The palate has a tight and finely concentrated core and is beautifully balanced A little phenolic-textured thread lends linearity, with crisp acidity enlivening the mouthfeel. The wine carries to as gently full, blossoming finish. This is very stylish and well-balanced. 100% Glera base wine, fruit from 2016, a blend of sites, fermented to 11.5% alc. and 6-7 g/L RS, aged 4 months on gross lees. 18.5/20 Dec 2017 RRP $27.50 TBC

Miotto ‘ProFondo’ Prosecco DOC Metodo Col Fondo NV
Straw-yellow colour, a little cloudy, with fine, frothy bead. The nose is firm and deep with intense aromas of apple fruit, savoury stonefruits and nutty, yeasty lees and autolysis. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate has well-concentrated and up-front flavours of apple fruit, stonefruits and savoury yeasty autolysis and leesy elements. The effervescence is gentle. This has a steely and cutting acid edge lending poise and finesse, and the mouthfeel has fine textures balanced with the zippy acidity. The flavours fade a little on the finish. This is a distinctive Prosecco interpretation. Methode Ancestral. 100% Glera fruit from the 2016 vintage, a ‘Pet Nat’ frizzante style, bottle fermented’ sur lie’ to 11.0% alc. and 0 g/L RS, undergoing full MLF and aged 5 months on lees, not disgorged. Bottles to carry vintage and bottling date. 18.0/20 Dec 2017 RRP $25.00 TBC

Miotto ‘Gentil’ Prosecco DOC Treviso Extra Dry NV
Very pale straw colour with fine frothy effervescence. The nose is very fresh and quite delicate and elegant in expression, quite refined, but with restraint. Less fruity, but a little more nutty and minerally. Off-fry to medium in sweetness, and medium-bodied, the palate has the residual sugar a little more prominent than the fruit. On palate the mouthfeel features very fine textures, with a subtle creaminess adding richness. The apple-like fruit emerges with ripe stonefruit and a touch of honeysuckle. An up-fruity style with the sweetness playing a role. 100% Glera fruit, 2016 base wine, fermented to 11.5% alc. and 14 g/L RS. 17.5/20 Dec 2017 RRP $22.50 TBC

Miotto ‘Federa’ Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry NV
Very pale straw colour with fine and frothy bubble. The nose is full with depth and density, the fruit with ripe apple notes along with a minerally edge and hints of brine. This is rich and sweet aromatically. Medium-dry to medium in taste, and medium-bodied, the apple fruitiness is somewhat restrained, unfolding honeysuckle and mineral elements. The fruit and sweetness are in an excellent balance. This has a stylish richness and deliciousness, with gently creamy mouthfeel and soft textures. The finish is balanced and sustained. A very friendly, accessible, classy Prosecco. 100% Glera fruit, 2016 base wine, fermented to 11.5% alc. and 17 g/L RS. 18.0+/20 Dec 2017 RRP $27.50 TBC

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